Back at sea level, just steps from the water and almost hidden in jungle-like gardens, the five fully staffed Bluefields Villas epitomize the kind of style that years ago made Jamaica the birthplace of the luxurious Caribbean getaway. Open to expansive sunset views, they incorporate traditional Jamaican materials like guango wood and local marble, and are filled with fine West Indian antiques such as mahogany four-poster beds. The guests at Villa San Michele looked as if they had thoroughly enjoyed the simple pleasure of spending their entire holiday in their bathing suits. With Negril 45 minutes and a world away, one supremely relaxed guest quipped that Bluefields enjoyed “all the nightlife you can make.” By day, the ambitious can stroll from the pool to the beach, or wet a line with one of the local fishermen. “Just ask for Herman,” the villa guests recommended – good advice judging from the five-foot kingfish they’d caught with him and were devouring for lunch. While I checked out another house, Cottonwood Cottage, a staffer asked, “Can you believe there’s a house in Jamaica without doors?” On purpose? No. But neither had I been in Bluefields before.