Later that evening, however, when I got to my villa in Bluefields Bay, I found it: Jamaican peace, and divine it is, too. There’s an outpost of touristic frenzy in Negril, at Jamaica’s western extremity. Savanna-La-Mar is a busy market town. Otherwise, the southwest coast is undeveloped and pretty well unruffled. Creeping into the villa at 10pm, the quiet was shocking. You could almost hear the candles flickering on a dining table. The mahogany table was set like a scene from Wide Sargasso Sea, but the room was open to the night breezes. The moonlight made that kind of milky pathway across the Caribbean so beloved of cruise ship brochures. A hundred feet below, the tide met the beach in relaxed spliff-like exhalations. I looked at the CD player in the corner and thought-maybe not.