Over my 10 visits to the island, I’ve avoided tourist hangouts like Ocho Rios and Montego Bay, preferring to rent houses on the unspoilt south-west coast at Bluefields between the pretty town of Black River and the centre of the sugar industry, Savannah La Mar. There are relatively few places to stay on this coast because the area has been ignored by the big hotel chains. At Bluefields, I saw that since my last visit four years ago, the highway has been moved back from the beautiful beach, making it quieter and safer. We stayed at Cottonwood cottage, one of several luxurious houses available for rent here. Right on the beach, they are owned by an American architect, Deborah Moncure, and her husband. A treat, if you can afford it, and over the years I have rented several with groups of friends, which makes it slightly more affordable. It was good to see the same people working here year after year.